Ni Dieu Ni Maitre

Massive changes in 15 years.

Again arrived in the dark and was overcharged for a fairly long cab ride to the capitol, Panjim/Panaji. I had been in this town twice before and got a hotel in the same neighborhoods. In 1985 was the first time and 2011 later. The changes over those years were small, and this sleepy former Portuguese colony retained a laid back charm.

However, in 2011 I saw both the rise of an Indian middle class and the subsequent growth of domestic tourism. Both positives, but certainly massively changing former hippie haunts, as on the beaches of Goa into jet ski, speed boat rides out to harass the dolphins, huge hotel scenes… or at least that’s what I’m looking at online.

The section of town that I’m in, just over a small hill from the main city cathedral, hasn’t changed all that much, with only a few upscale restaurants near the main junction. It caters to domestic tourists, and does have its charms. The city itself, however, has sprouted upward and outward into is now mainly tourist oriented.

Which brings me to my current dilemma. In my late teens and early twenties, I was a hitch-hiker with a knapsack, crossing Canada and up to Alaska, circumnavigating the continental United States, camping in wilderness areas and later living on beaches in Hawaii for over a year, Then I discovered the 10 speed bicycle and shortly thereafter, cycle touring. I’ve ridden through dozens of countries on 5 continents with a partner and without. Through it all, I saw myself as a traveller, rather than a tourist, even avoiding tourist spots to live among the people of the lands I visited.

But so far, I’m a tourist losing my freedom and independence and dealing with mainly people in the service industry, servicing tourists. My transportation has to be provided, lately by dishonest cab drivers. And after spending a fair while in Panaji, I’ll soon be heading off to one of the many tourist beaches here in Goa.

The answer is pretty obvious… seek out more remote and interesting places and become a traveller once more. Easier said than done, and this will take some serious preparation… The North Eastern states of India look like a good choice from a few guys I have talked to who have come down here to work.

They’re in the process of buffing and repainting this old Hindu temple.