The last place I wanted to go in Sri Lanka was Negombo Beach. After 30 sleepless hours in airports or on planes, and befuddled by the fact that my ‘Nanny’ bank had seen fit to block my card the moment I arrived in.SL, besieged by touts all telling me I must go to Negombo, I gave in, just to get some sleep.
The reasons I did not want to go here? Several years ago, a ship carrying acid, chemicals, pesticides and so on caught fire and sank off of the beach, an ecological disaster, poisoning the beach and ending the livelihoods of the fishing populace. Although there are no posted signs, no one is foolish enough to go in the water.
These images are from 15 years ago when I first arrived in the then sleepy town of Negombo. Much to my surprise, despite no available ocean to frolic in, tourists flock here, mainly European young people with a decent amount of fogies like myself. The beach road, which years ago was mostly sea views with a few random hotels and small restaurants is now so built up that is barely possible to see the ocean or enjoy the cooling onshore breezes.
“Is that all for you?” He nods. “You must be Russian.” “Da!” The good old days.
And so I have remained here for my entire 30 day visa, having bicycled all around this small country practically twice over on my last visit. It’s quite a beautiful and varied country, wildlife preserves, massive tea plantations waterfalls galore in the hills, wetlands full of amazing birds… and very friendly and mainly happy people.
I’ve made a lot of friends here, especially with my hotel mates Marco and Amy, who have travelled as nomads for 8 years in India, SL, and Nepal, providing me with tons of help and information as to the how-to of this lifestyle, as well as how to purchase and use a mobile phone, something I’ve avoided for years.
Ni Dieu Ni Maitre 